Looking Back on Vacation

Sumerlin Ranch, May 25, 2015, 9:05 p.m.

I never did write the last vacation blog. By the time we got on the plane, all I could think about was getting home. I numbed my tired mind with movies and more or less spent the entire flight in mindless wakefulness. 

From the distance of a few weeks, I can identify the take-aways from this huge family vacation. Certainly among the main lessons learned is the need to travel with people who travel like you do. I summed this one up by whispering to Yvette "I'll never go to Europe without you again" as I hugged her when she picked us up at SFO. Traveling is stressful and often brings out the less-than-stellar aspects of one's character. And different aspects of travel induce stress in different people. Heidi cannot travel where there are crowds. Seriously, no crowds. Maddie will go anywhere with good humor but needs down time then and again. If she doesn't get her down time, she'll make you sorry for it. And Reiner needs someone to take care of the nitty-gritty details. He likes to remember his vacations, and he needs someone to create those memory opportunities for him. 

Just as travel brings out negative qualities, it also brings out some wonderfully positive character traits. Heidi has an inquisitive mind; she wants to know more than just the superficial layer of information that tourists get. She'll go back to Pompeii one day and learn far more than we did on our tour. When Maddie finds something interesting, like the Roman Forum, her enthusiasm and curiosity are infectious. Her ability to sketch what she sees, what she finds interesting, makes me so damned envious. And both girls established relationships with their Herbon relations independent of their father and me. It speaks well for the future of the family. 

And even Reiner has his good points, much as it pains me to say so. He went beyond just generosity in ensuring that we had every opportunity to fully experience the wonders of the cities we visited. And he loves the cafes--maybe even more than me. And that's saying something. 

When I asked my fellow travelers what they most enjoyed about the trip, everyone expressed appreciation for the hours spent with family. Those days in Berlin represent a time that none of us will ever forget. We all loved being at the flat on Ordensmeisterstr, spending time with the little boys, with Mellie, Sascha, Ollie, and Petra. The visit to the beautiful home of Misha and Tina, laughing and talking and eating wonderful food, ranks as another high point of our trip. And none of us will forget the afternoon and evening with Onkel Werner and Tante Cissy, Manfred and Kristine, and the visit to Klo (although I preferred Tante Cissy's elegant tea to the bathroom-inspired pub).  

I've said it before and I'll say it again:  those Germans are lecker!!

I don't know if I'll make a point of going back to Rome. The Forum was amazing, as were the smaller churches we visited on the day we went to the Pantheon. I enjoyed Pompeii, the crypt tour, and the cafe on the corner by the hotel. Perhaps I would have enjoyed the Borghese Gallery had we found time to visit it. But the Vatican filled me with so much bitterness and disappointment that I cannot see myself ever going back. 

Of course, my love for Paris remains strong. I wish the girls could have had a different experience. Fighting the tourist crowds took a lot out of all of us. And coming at the end of the trip did not help. Looks like the girls and I will just have to go back--over and over until we get it right. 

All in all, I can look back with fond reminiscence at our big family vacation. There were rough spots along the way, but the good times far outweighed the bad. I don't imagine too many years will pass before I'm once again cozy in the little bed by the window in the flat on Ordensmeisterstr. 

Travel, like Germans, is lecker!

One Day More

Cafe Ragueneau, May 8, 2015, 2:49 p.m.

For the first time in my four visits to Paris, I'm out on my own. And I probably shouldn't be, as I've spent far more on this little shopping trip than I should have. And now I'm indulging in some much-desired ice cream. 

It is amazing to do this all by myself. Even though I've ridden the Metro dozens of times, there is something exhilarating about getting on by myself, with a specific destination in mind, and imaging what it would be like to live here. Although, I have to confess, I can more readily see myself in Berlin instead--just like Maddie and Heidi. 

I think I'm about done with gift-buying. There's not much left other than to pack and catch the flight back home tomorrow morning. 

Last selfie in Europe

Today is a big day across Europe--and not just because of the Conservative majority the Brits just elected for themselves. It is the 70th anniversary of VE Day. I watched the limited coverage on BBC World, limited because, like American news networks, they think politics is of prime importance. The French president laid a wreath at their tomb of the unknown soldier underneath the Arc de Triomphe. It was all very somber and there didn't look to be many people in the Champs Elysee for the event. John Kerry was there on behalf of the U.S., and he was interviewed in his pretty-decent French. 

It's funny how quickly people forget the positive momentous events of the past. On the original VE Day, people crowded the streets, singing, dancing, and doing a lot of kissing. But now, few appear to even notice other than its a general holiday for government and schools. We Americans are no different. Only really old folks and history buffs remember VJ Day and its importance. But ask us about our mistakes in the past, like slavery, treatment of Native Americans, or Vietnam, and we're delighted to go on and on about it. Why the bad but not the good?  I have no answer--yet. 

Hotel Ibis, 10:11 p.m.

Time to wind down for the night as we leave early tomorrow morning. 

I'm happy to report that the rest of this day was as good as the earlier part. I took the Metro back to the home station after my ice cream. As I came up the steps and looked toward the corner cafe, I was heralded by Maddie. Turns out, she and her sister were in their third round of drinks at that friendly little cafe. Before I knew what was happening, I was downing that 1664 beer like it was going out of style. A couple of rounds, and we walked down the street to do a little shopping--coming back to drink some more. By the time Reiner found us there, we were all a little tipsy. The bar man gave Maddie a free shot of Jim Beam directly from the shot-measuring device. And our last round of drinks were on the house. Reiner took a great pic of this jolly barkeep but phone troubles mean I can't show it here. 

We went to a little restaurant on the canal by our hotel for dinner. Then, Reiner and I came back to the hotel while Mad and Heidi have gone back to the cafe for one more round. It kills Heidi that she has to return to her home country where she won't be able to legally buy a drink for another two months. 

Tomorrow I'll write my last blog for this trip. There's nothing so broadening as travel--and nothing so comforting as going home. 

More Art--and some liquor

Ibis Hotel, May 7, 2015, 10:56 p.m.

Happy Great Britain Election Day!  When the only English-language television channel is BBC World, you follow the British election closely. While I'm sure it is important, I found the naming of Princess Charlotte Elizabeth Diana much more interesting.

Heidi by the Seine

Today was another day for history and art.  We began with history at Notre Dame.  It seems like my inner compass was not up to snuff, as I took us off the Metro and into the wrong direction.  Reiner, known for his map-reading abilities as "kleine Magellen," finally got us going in the right direction.  The  line was long--as it seems every line is this time in Paris--but it went quickly (in spite of the fact that Heidi was ready to throw down with some snotty French high school kids).

Once inside, I was vaguely disappointed. It was not as I remembered it.  (Oh, my, the Conservatives are predicted to win the majority!  They just announced this on BBC World).  Anyway, the cathedral was, for the first time that I can recall, not being renovated on its exterior.  I was able to see all the Kings of Judah lined up around the entrance. Inside, it was not as noisy as the Sistine Chapel, but it was clearly more of a tourist trap than a house of worship. The "donation" sought to light a candle was five euros, a ridiculous price for a tea candle and a prayer.

This artist, Maddie Herbon 

Biblical puppet show 

Anyway, Maddie made some sketches and took many photos of the beautiful stained glass. She is such a talented artist that, even when I'm used to it, I'm still surprised to see her work.

O.K., this is hysterical on television right now, totally distracting me.  They have a "virtual Parliament" on the screen with digitally produced David Cameron and his fellow competitors.

Back to blogging....After Notre Dame, the family unit had a difference of opinion on how best to get to the Orsay Museum.  Heidi checked the online map, and it was only a half hour walk, just over a mile.  Reiner "I can walk forever" Herbon wanted to take the train. So, we split the difference--Reiner took the train and Maddie, Heidi, and I walked. We Herbon women took the opportunity to enjoy walking along the river and looking at all the book stands along the way.  These little stands sell a little bit of everything except food products. You can get magnets, old magazines, postcards, signs, posters, prints, and, of course, used books.  It was fun doing this bit of window shopping along our walk.

Maddie and I purchased some local artwork

Once at the Orsay, we were pleased to note that the crowds were not too bad.  People seemed to gather around the Van Goghs and the Monets, but they didn't seem to bother with all the other pieces, including the Rodin sculptures and the special exhibit on Italian modern artists from 1914 to 1940.

After our walk to the Orsay

Mad and Heidi with the sculpture representing North America

Still my favorite, by Camille Claudel

I'm being crowned with a laurel wreath?? 

Maddie at the "Gates of Hell"

Seems like I always find people asleep at the Orsay

Maddie 

Heidi

Relaxing 

Hey, Heidi has this picture in her house! 

The Metro ride back to our little neighborhood was a long one and involved as much walking time as riding time.  But we went to the same little corner cafe that has become our hangout, and the bar bill surprised even Reiner (I'm telling you, the 1664 beer Heidi and I enjoyed was so good that multiple glasses were consumed).  Because we are such good customers, the bar man treated each of us to a minty disgestif to finish out the meal.

Now, I'm back in the hotel, the girls are tucked into their room, and Reiner has gone for a walk while I blog (I think the tapping of my fingers on the keyboad really bugs him).  Tomorrow is our last day of vacation.  I'm already planning to hug my dog and take a long, hot bubble bath when I get home.

The Mona Lisa--It Was Not as Popular Back Then

Cafe Audace, May, 6, 2015, 8:42 p.m.

Today's blog title comes from the clever mind of my darling Maddie. After today's crowd gathered around the Mona Lisa, she commented that the reason I saw it better in 1996 was that "it was not as popular back then."  Maybe it only became popular when Marcel Duchamps drew a mustache on it, but that was before my time. 

Today's agenda included a visit to the world famous Louvre. It was fairly crowded; I can only guess that much of China is empty right now as there were several large tour groups from that nation.

This poor fellow had a hole in ass

Maddie and Heidi at the Last Supper Cocktail Party

One of my favorites--Liberty Leading the People 

We saw the usual stars:  Winged Victory, Mona, Michaelangelo's Slaves, several of the best works by Delacroix, Marriage at Cana, and the small Lacemaker by Vermeer. 

The girls made a new friend, John the Baptist. Whether in Luini's painting or other paintings and sculptures, Maddie and Heidi enjoyed the sight of this saint minus his head, usually on the plate as requested by Salome.

Maddie and Heidi loved this one best 

Me?  I liked the same things I've liked there before.  The historical scenes as painted by Delacroix and David are amazing.  They, of course, cannot represent the actual event as it happened.  But they can tell a lot about how the people in power wanted the event to be seen by the larger public.  I love the painting of Napoleon's coronation, in which Nappy lifts up the crown to place it on his own head--a head much further from the ground than it probably was in real life.  And his mom, who wasn't there, has been added.  And why not? If you're Nappy and you want your mom to be at your coronation, well, just photoshop her in via your friend the artist.

Heidi found early ice hockey 

The Lacemaker

We spent several hours at the Louvre, evening stopping in one of the cafes for a delicious lunch.  But the crowds were overwhelming, and it did feel good to get out of there.  We walked past the Carrosel Arch and into the Tuilleries gardens.  This is when it decided to rain for several minutes. Maddie, Heidi, and I were all wearing hoodies--plus, I had Yvette's beloved Paris umbrella. Reiner had decided when we left the hotel that he didn't need his jacket.  Yeah, he was the one running for the cover of the trees when the raindrops fell.

Walking along the Champs Elysees was very much the same as it was when I was here in September.  There were many expensive stores--too expensive for our resident shopper and bargain hunter, Heidi.  Then the girls saw the one shop that they'd been dying to go in since we set foot on this continent nearly three weeks ago:  McDonald's.  I'll admit, I was homesick enough to agree to a quick meal there.  A regular ol' McChicken and fries really hit the spot. 

I know.  I feel badly about it.

Comforted by the familiar American fast food, we headed for the Arc de Triomphe.  Reiner wanted to go to the top, but he was unable to interest any of the rest of us as it was very windy and cold.  So, he and Maddie walked around underneath the arch, and Heidi and I stayed cozy in the tunnel beneath.  

Onto the Metro and off to a stop that was only about Reiner (although he claimed that it was really for Heidi)--the Moulin Rouge.  This "cabaret" or "burlesque" is nothing at all like it was back in the days when Toulouse Lautrec hung out there or when Colette got the place shut down in the first decade of the twentieth century by kissing her girlfriend on stage.  The place now is an indistinguished building with a red windmill on top sandwiched in between other buildings and shops, across the street from a strip club.  There were lots of tourists snapping photos with the Moulin Rouge in the background, and many tourists were in line to see a show, but that's about all there was to it.  On the bright side, Reiner found an adorable salt-and-pepper set for Heidi there.

I needed some peace after a stressful day of negotiating crowds of people and a daughter who hates crowds of people (you know who you are, daughter), so I announced that I was stopping at the corner cafe by our Metro stop for a cafe creme and "peace."  My family members agreed to the "non-bitching" rule (with the amendment that bitching about 'Merica was allowed), so we stopped in. It turned out to be a nice place to hang out, a friendly bar man, lively other people chatting and such.  And, I do love me a nicce cafe creme.  But I cannot imagine what the people in the cafe thought when Maddie and Heidi insisted on singing the Harry Potter Puppet Show song (Snape, Snape, Severus Snape--DUMBLEDORE!). 

More art tomorrow, plus a planned visit to Notre Dame.  Only a few days of vacation left...

Midnight in Paris

Ibis Hotel, 19th arr., Paris, May 5, 2015, 10:21 p.m.

Well, so its not quite midnight, but its definitely Paris.  If only I was here with Owen Wilson....

Up early AGAIN! Argh.  Not loving the lack of sleep, nor am I a fan of airports and all the stress they bring with them.  But, we made it to Paris and got checked into our hotel by 1:30 this afternoon.

Unfortunately, one of Heidi's bags was left in the cab.  As we have no idea of the name of the cabbie or company, we have no way of retrieving it.  Some of her Berlin treasures were in the bag, and Heidi's meltdown in the face of this loss was understandable. I'm proud of her, though, that she pulled it together and was a terrific companion during our first afternoon in Paris. She's growing up nicely--if I do say so myself.

As we left the hotel this afternoon, our first stop was a little cafe just down the street from our nearby Metro stop. The girls enjoyed their first taste of Orangina, Reiner yet another glass of wine (he's helping both the French and Italian wine industries), and I had, of course, a cafe creme.

Onto the Metro for a quick trip to pick up our Museum Pass and other tour goodies.  Then we met up with our tour guide for our "skip the line" visit to the Eiffel Tower.

Skip the line, indeed!  The line stretched for quite a distance, and the folks in it were probably looking at a two hour wait.  We, on the other hand, hopped right onto an elevator and whisked our way to the second level.

The crowds were a little much for a tired Lorraine and Heidi, but Reiner and Maddie took the elevator up to the third level, as high as you could go.  Heidi and I took a seat in the square in front of the tower and people-watched.  It was especially interesting to see the trinket salesmen, most walking around with huge metal rings with dozens of Eiffel Tower key rings and miniatures.  As soon as the cops came around, these fellows would hustle out of the area, just far enough so that they could run away if needed.  As soon as the cops were gone, they'd come right on back.  

We also saw several soldiers, heavily armed, patrolling the area, reminding us again that there are real bad guys out there determined on doing harm.

Finishing up with the Tower, we grabbed a quick snack (for me, warm Nutella crepe--yum!) and boarded our Seine cruise.

The river was so high that the cruise really consisted of little more than a mile or so up and down the river.  While it was disappointing, we did get to see the smaller version of the Statue of Liberty--and she looked fabulous.

After the cruise, there was just enough time to really play with my camera!

Tired from a long day, we're now back at the hotel.  While the girls and I shared a room in Rome, here I'm stuck with Reiner in the next bed. He's already as loud as a freight train.  But there's a show about the end of WWII (in French) on television, and I'm enjoying it while I blog.

On the agenda for tomorrow--ART!!